Kandy's a damn sight more interesting than Colombo, but unless things have changed dramatically in 14 years it's a pain in the arse getting there!
I remember us taking what they impressively called the "Inter City Express" from the capital. That was straight on the back of a seven hour train ride from Matala to Colombo. For the first hour of the Kandy ride the train was packed with suburbs commuters, half of them hanging from the outside of the train like you see in pictures.
Then most of them got off leaving us in peace for the remaining FOUR HOURS it took to cover the last 100km! What a day.
It's not the slowest train I've been on but there again the others didn't claim to be expresses!
But once you're there it is definitely worth the visit. Just make sure the president is out of the country when you go and get plenty of cans in if the parade of the tooth is imminent! (
http://www.sridaladamaligawa.lk/english/)